We set off from Ventura's bustling marina, facing a choppy crossing through forecasted gale-force winds and rather big seas. With gear safely link stowed, I retreated to my coffin-sized sleeping berth to ride out the two-hour voyage to the islands. The captain would play chess with the wind link for the whole week, moving the boat among sheltered anchorages in the lee of the link islands where we would dive, eat, and sleep in relative calm.